F is for “First Nations”
By Phyllis Knox
This blog is part of a very special series created and written by Phyllis Knox, “Alphabetic Musings”, whereby she chooses a word starting with a particular letter from the alphabet and injects it with her storytelling magic.
Let me first begin by admitting my extremely limited knowledge of so many aspects of the lives and history of Indigenous Peoples of Quebec. Only in the past 20 years or so have I even become aware of the presence of and the history of Indigenous peoples, and the important role they have played in our lives throughout the 350+ years since the arrival of Europeans on this continent. I knew from history and geography books of the day that there had been many battles waged and many peace treaties signed – but that did not seem to have anything to do with me – it had happened before my birth so, so it did not involve me. But it did very much involve me! I have since made a point to read as much as I can; to go online, to watch historic documentaries, and in fact to study up on them in as many ways as I can. I have a deep-seated need to find out more. I would like to mention a wonderful book which you can find on-line: Aboriginal Peoples: Fact and Fiction, by Pierre Lepage, published in 2009 by the Commission des droits de la personne et des droits de la jeunesse du Québec. It is available in English here. In consultation and partnership with many representatives of Indigenous groups, it is a compilation of history, aiming to set straight certain “myths” and questionable information about the hundreds of years of peaceful and not-so peaceful co-existence within the populations of Quebec.
Looking at the geography of our Valley – the St-Maurice Valley – I’m thinking about six distinct yet connected locations within the Valley: the city of Three Rivers; the towns of Shawinigan, Grand’Mere and La Tuque, all on the north shore of our majestic St. Lawrence River (Le Fleuve St. Laurent), and two small villages on the south shore, Odanak (near Pierreville) and Wolinak (near Bécancour). Starting at Three Rivers, which is the hub of the Valley (English-speaking people of our city never said Trois-Rivieres when I was growing up), one of the most important intersections is the converge of Laviolette and St. Maurice streets. If you drive east for a couple of miles, you cross Le Pont Duplessis (named after Maurice Le Noblet Duplessis (Premier of Québec from 1936 to 1939 and again from 1944 to 1959) who was born in Three Rivers in 1890 and died in 1959. At that point, you find yourself in the Cap-de-la Madeleine (The Cape) section of the city. You then turn left and head north on the eastern side of the St. Maurice River (Riviere St. Maurice) to Shawinigan and Grand-mère, then on to La Tuque along the 155. It’s a beautiful drive with some incredible sites and views. From La Tuque, you then head back and drive south on Highway 55 on the western side of the river so as to have easy access to Le Pont Laviolette (named after the person said to have founded Trois-Rivières.) After crossing the Laviolette bridge, you can turn right (heading west)) to Odanak or turn left and head eastward to Wolinak.
I have become acutely (and sadly) aware of what I have missed out on, for so many years, in terms of my appreciation of this Valley and my understanding of its history. My childhood did not include any knowledge of the very people, the First Nations, who had lived right here for so long. I feel as though a whole side of my beloved Valley was kept secret. I could -and should – have learned from and been inspired by the culture and traditions of Indigenous people – a great people, and a culture different from my own but which would have opened my heart, my soul and my understanding to the world around me. It was not to be. Today, we have fortunately come to understand that everyone is important and that only together can we save our wildlife and our wetlands, our rivers, our forests, and our mountains, by living in harmony with each other. I do believe that we have all come a long way!
At this point, I would like to honour all the First Nations of Quebec which include the Abenaki, Algonquin, Attikamekw, Cree, Huron-Wendat, Malecites, Innus, Mi’qmaq and Naskapi.
For thousands of years, the area now known as Trois-Rivieres where the St. Maurice River flows into the mighty St. Lawrence had been a meeting place during the summer months for surrounding peoples since fish, game, and nuts and roots were so plentiful. The ancestral transportation route of the St. Maurice made it possible for the Cree and the Innu from the north and the Iroquois and the Abenaki from the south, and the Algonquin (Anishinaabeg) from the west to meet, to trade, and to form alliances.
I want to write a few words now about three little cities which stand along our St. Maurice River: Shawinigan, Grand’Mere and La Tuque. My memories of these towns are as clear in my mind today as they were some 65+ years ago. In my mind’s eye, it is as though I walked and ran and played there only yesterday. These welcoming small cities became a window onto the wilderness that existed within our county. But, never, ever was there a mention of a people who had existed there for so many thousands of years...if only there had been some person or event that I would have heard about, opening up a learning process about the Indigenous peoples and their cultures. My curiosity and love of history and geography would most certainly have taken me into a vast world and towards a better-understanding of cultural differences.
Shawinigan, or Shawinigan Falls as it was known during my youth, has a population of 49,620 people, according to the Canadian Census (2021). When Canada’s First Peoples first arrived thousands of years ago, the rolling lands and rivers and lakes and forests and mountains of the area must have offered a particularly good area for them for hunting and fishing. As a child, my father and mother would regularly take the ‘gang’ (and a dog or two) for a ride to the Falls on Sunday afternoons during warm summers. The public park looks out on the St. Maurice and the beautiful, well-maintained gardens that surrounded our play area were so outstanding. We would have our picnics under the trees and watch as people paddling their canoes and rowing their rowboats waved to us. The scene reminded me of paintings I had only seen in books. I can still remember where we sat in the park during those wonderful family outings.
Grand’Mere: in 2001 it had a population of just over 13,000 people, but the following year it became part of the City of Shawinigan. According to the Canadian Encyclopedia, the town got its name (which means “grandmother) from a “...rock formation which resembles an old woman with a hair bun at the base of her head” In 1916, the rock was moved out of the river and set in a small park overlooking the river. I can remember looking at the rock formation when I was a child, but finding no resemblance to my own grandmother!!! The Montagnais were the first to inhabit this territory and the first French missionaries made contact with them in 1651. The Indigenous groups in the area were nomadic and moved around, responding to the changing seasons and the natural migration of prey. There was no permanent attempt at settlement until the arrival of Europeans about 200 years later.. This area along the St. Maurice was their winter home.
La Tuque (once known as La Tuque Falls) is a town in the northern-most part of the St- Maurice Valley, with a population of 11,000 people (according to the 2021 Canadian Census). The town’s Wikipedia page mentions that the area was first inhabited by the Atikamekw people. Today, the Atikamekw have a population of about 8000 spread out in three communities: Manawan (to the west of La Tuque), and Opitciwan (Obedjiwan) and Wemotaci to the north. For more information about the Atikamekw, visit the Atikamekw Council page (in French and Atikamekw only here) La Tuque is now named for “a rock formation that resembles the famous French-Canadian hat” (now, partially demolished). The Haut-Mauricie Municipality is known for its wildlife reserves and forest-related industries.
And now, to the villages on the south side of the river – to Odanak and Wolinak. Sylvie Bernard, pictured in the photo, is the owner of a boutique in the middle of Wolinak where she produces and creates an ambitious number of authentic objects with timeless appeal, called Plumes et Pacotilles (which means literally “Feathers and Trinkets”.) Her love of tradition and her eye for beauty result in crafts and artistic creations which are second to none in quality! I look for every and any excuse to visit her store and if I am lucky, Sylvie might sing a First Nations song or tell me a tale about her ancestors. How terrific is that!
About 400 Abenaki live in Odanak, and just under 200 in Wolinak. According to a map of the region which I found online, only about a 45-minute drive separates the two villages. Wolinak has recently added a casino to its attractions. It is a popular venue and its restaurants serve extremely good food. At the entrance to the village, there is a well-stocked corner store and a beautiful gift shop where you can procure authentic handmade jewelry, moccasins, in-store authentic clothing, greeting cards, dream catchers, books, feather-headdresses of all kinds as well as snowshoes and so much more. A short walk from there will take you to the Abenaki Council Hall and the church. Near a stream which connects to the St. Lawrence River, stands a grouping of statues of different animals important to the Abenaki: the beaver, the fox, the fish, among others. Pleasant homes surround a quiet and beautiful area.
Odanak, Wolinak’s sister village, means “our Village” in Abenaki and it sits on the St. Francis River. There are all kinds of activities which take place on its territory throughout the year, including their annual Pow-wow, usually held in July. Making a stop at Odanak is well-worth your time – there’s the Abenaki museum, a picnic area, and trails to walk through the woods along the river. For further reading, I would like to suggest a wonderful book which was published by the Société d’histoire d’Odanak in 2011. It is called “Memories of a Nation” Odanak Abenakis 1660-2010, by Kim Gabriel-Nolett (“Mémoires d’une Peuple: Les Abénakis d’Odanak” in French) The author chose to publish in both French and English, and the use of both languages in one book makes it an accessible learning tool for all Quebecois (Quebecers).This wonderful book includes a lot of information including topics such as history, memorable events, ambassadors, arts and culture, women of action, youth, a list of Chiefs since 1831, as well as many photos and illustrations.
Before closing this blog post, I would like to mention a book which I recently discovered at a book fair here in Three Rivers: Contes de la Tortue Tales from the Turtle, a collection of stories beautifully and sensitively illustrated by Meky Ottawa. The 11 writers and poets represent all 11 Indigenous groups who live across our vast and great province. Our Valley is represented by Jennifer O’Bomsawin whose story is in French, English and Abenaki (W8BANAKI) and called Wdaskwin, l’homme cornu...Odaskwin, The Man with the Horns and in its original language, Wdaswin. It is a rather sad tale about a baby who was born with horns on his head. His difficult life leads him to find a way to live separately from his family and home. With the permission of the book’s representative, this is how the story starts:
“The Abenaki community of Odanak is located on the east banks of the Alsigontekw River, which most people know as the St. Francois River. The area close to the village includes a wide expanse of land and a small forest called La Commune. That forest is where you’ll find the pit and the spring of Odaskwin, the man with the horns. This is his story- a true story.”
P.S. It has been such a pleasure for me to write about my Valley. While diving into my own past and in the process, learning about a strong and wonderful people who live side by side with me, I have taken a major step in becoming a more open and better person. Thank you for taking the time to read my pieces, and I appreciate your comments – Phyllis – (Fill – iss)
